Experience unique southern Thai cuisine at Long Dtai by Chef David Thompson

Koh Samui is the place to be if you’ve had enough of over-crowded beaches and polluted waters. Thailand’s second largest island is undoubtedly popular, but tourist and flight arrivals are considerably well managed. To really get away for a luxe retreat, consider a stay at Cape Fahn Hotel. This SLH resort is located on a private island off Choeng Mon Beach on the north-east corner of Samui. To cross over to the small island, you have to take a three-minute journey on a hybrid amphibious truck-turn-boat vehicle (at high tide, it transforms into a boat). The main highlight for gourmands is the superb Southern Thai cuisine at Long Dtai restaurant by Chef David Thompson. The well-known Australian chef is largely based in Bangkok but flies to Samui as often as he can as he loves the locale and the sea.

The restaurant and bar are perched on a hilly point on the lush island. In the evenings, sit at the sprawling terrace and enjoy uninterrupted views of the serene waters (and if you’re lucky, the moon on the horizon), while waiting for your fresh seafood to be grilled on an outdoor fire-pit.

Fiery flavours 

Long Dtai Restaurant’s Southern Thai-style dishes are authentic and remain true to the flavours of this part of the country. And by that, it means fiery stuff. The chef won’t necessarily tone down the heat just because you can’t handle it. But the team will suggest less spicy options in the menu. Nevertheless, the bold flavours are well-balanced and sublime, underscored by freshness of local ingredients.

Tirawan Taechaubol, owner and group project development manager of Cape & Kantary Hotels was introduced to the chef by a mutual friend. She had tried some of his dishes before in London and Bangkok but had never experienced his Southern Thai creations before. Tirawan was so impressed with the dishes that she was “immediately convinced that she had a duty to bring such flavours to a wider audience”.

“What fascinates me about David is his passion for the food as well as the time and care he takes to produce every single one of his creations to achieve absolute authenticity,” says Tirawan whose family runs property development and management company Kasemkij Group, which includes Cape & Kantary and Kameo hotels.  She adds that she was intrigued by the chef’s wicked sense of humour too. She continues, “David does everything with true passion and has a remarkable eye for detail.” He travelled to the south of Thailand and spent time talking to the locals and researching the local ingredients at markets and farms.

“Of course, there is Pattanee, a key member of our team. He was born and bred in the south and knows intimately the ins and outs of producing authentic southern dishes.  He brings to the team traditional home-cooking ideas and techniques that he learned in his childhood,” she shares. “David encourages his team to introduce new ideas.   And when he is not here, he gives the team a free hand   to introduce food ideas from their village or locality,” says Tirawan.

Unique signatures

Some of the more uncommon items found in Long Dtai’s menu include prawn and salted duck egg relish simmered in coconut cream; coconut soup with squid and fresh tamarind leaves; and grilled skate curry with wild mangosteen leaves.

Tirawan says that there are many unique dishes in the menu that even locals may not have tried. Specialties include tom pla chem jay yai (salted fish in a soup made from pork belly) and pad malagor kai (raw green papaya stir-fried with egg). “There is also a dish called kai krob made from the egg yolk that is leftover after the fishermen have lubricated their lines with the white of the egg,” she tells.

The folks in fishing villages of Songkhla Province in Southern Thailand make fishnets from cotton yarn. To prevent the net from getting frayed, it is often treated with egg white from duck eggs. The leftover yolks are then preserved. Called kai krob, this traditional food item is made by putting two duck egg yolks into halved egg shells, topped with salt, and left to dry in the sunlight. To cook the sun-dried egg, it is steamed until set.

David works in close collaboration with local fishermen to source for the bounty of ingredients. All the fish  used in his recipes is line-caught to protect the  marine environment as far as possible. “It is always his watchword to find the best quality ingredients and to avoid over-cooking in order to retain the full flavour of the dish,” says Tirawan.

The chef incorporates lots of native vegetables from Samui into his dishes, such as the leafy pak hued whose young buds are used in making pickles. He also uses mineral-rich bottle gourd leaves and bitter gourd leaves for some dishes, and adds root vegetables such as mun khee noo to a spicy curry soup. Local sago is used for the traditional dessert of palm sugar fruit and coconut cream.

Sustainable environmental conservation

Conscious travellers will be glad to know that Long Dtai plays an important part in sustainable environmental conservation by using natural resources in moderation. The restaurant has a clear policy of using mainly local ingredients to reduce the amount of greenhouse gas emissions from long-distance transportation.

Tirawan says, “Wherever possible we hire local residents so that we are providing a direct source  of income for local families and reinvesting into the community.  We use locally produced goods and services and make a point of supporting community projects. We source fresh produce from local markets and direct from the farmers, whom we encourage to follow organic production methods, as well as from our own herb garden.  All that helps to reduce carbon emissions.”

Furthermore, any packaging used is bio-degradable and food waste is minimised through composting, recycling and careful waste management.  A dining experience at Long Dtai is not just satisfying, it’s a responsible one too.

For bookings, visit Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH)’s website

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Text by: Amy Van
Photos: Cape Fahn Hotel