The essence of Lyon’s food culture is anchored on heritage and tradition, so it’s hard for a restaurant serving avant-garde French food to do well. The bistros and bouchons (eateries serving mainly meaty dishes) do not evolve: they stick to the same menus for years, retaining Lyonnais specialities like pâte en croûte, and they don’t tweak or change their interiors. The ambience is cosy, and the service is warm, making you feel right at home. When you order a baba au rhum in a bouchon, don’t be surprised if the staff brings you a bottle of rum for you to add your desired quantity to your dessert. You leave the restaurant knowing the manager and the chef’s name. In Paris, you can sit in a restaurant for a long time and none of the waiters will talk to you.
Excerpt from June'13 issue of epicure
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