Makgeolli, Korean’s beloved rice wine, may be steeped in history, but today’s younger crowd is giving it new momentum. Discover four innovative bars taking this humble drink to bold new heights.
BY JOCELYN TAN
PHOTOS: WOORI YEAHSOOL, HANGUK BAR ANSSI MAKGEOLLI, DDARO JIP, DAMOTORI H
Hanguk Bar Anssi Makgeolli (Mr. Ahn’s Craft Makgeolli)
3 Hoenamu-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
When Hanguk Bar Anssi Makgeolli first opened in 2013, most people thought of traditional taverns with rusty kettles rather than a sleek venue dedicated solely to local spirits made without additives. Undeterred by that stereotype, Hanguk Bar Anssi Makgeolli set out to redefine the scene by pairing these traditional drinks with inventive dishes that honour Korea’s culinary heritage.
Step inside, and you’re greeted by a buzzing, convivial atmosphere – none of the hushed formality you might expect from a Michelin-listed establishment. Instead, the tables fill with close-knit groups chatting away, while Korean indie tunes set a lively soundtrack that shifts with the seasons. At the core of the menu sits the signature “Anssi Makgeolli”— brewed in collaboration with Seoul Hyomobang. Clocking in at a friendly 7.5% ABV, its mellow, fruity sweetness and aroma (think banana or melon) makes it approachable for anyone new to rice wine.
Still not sure which makgeolli suits your palate? Hanguk Bar Anssi Makgeolli has that covered, too. Their menu is organised into a clever four-quadrant chart, mapping each brew’s sweetness and lightness/heaviness of the mouthfeel. It’s a fun, visual way to explore the offerings, helping you zero in on exactly what you’d like to sip.
When it comes to pairing your drink with food, the team offers a clear philosophy. According to manager Da-Woon Jeong, you can think of makgeolli as rice in a glass, so pairing it with comforting Korean staples — like their homemade kimchi and namul (seasoned vegetables)—is a foolproof option. For a more adventurous bite, try the chive pesto-tossed yukhoe (seasoned raw beef). Together with their house-brewed makgeolli, it’s akin to enjoying a playful twist on yukhoe bibimbap (raw beef mixed rice).
Woori Yeahsool
10 Jangchungdan-ro 7-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul
Woori Yeahsool distinguishes itself as the only bar in Seoul that brews its makgeolli in-house and serves it on tap — an especially notable feature given makgeolli’s natural effervescence. Because this traditional rice wine undergoes active fermentation, it tends to be slightly fizzy. By dispensing it straight from the tap, Woori Yeahsool preserves the freshness and carbonation, creating a crisp, bubbly mouthfeel that you simply don’t find in most bottled varieties.
Behind Woori Yeahsool are three co-founders, each contributing a unique perspective: one developed a passion for makgeolli during high school and travelled throughout Korea to study brewing techniques; another is a chef specialising in Asian cuisine; and the third is both a talented brewer and designer. United by a shared vision, they opened a space devoted to showcasing how versatile this age-old beverage can be.
The bar’s atmosphere embodies the founders’ ambitious dream of “conquering the world with makgeolli.” It’s warm and inviting, set to a soundtrack of diverse tunes that quickly puts guests at ease. Woori Yeahsool’s makgeolli offerings range from traditional rice-only brews to more adventurous creations like wasabi makgeolli or their signature “Everyday Adventure (일상적모험)”, fermented with yuzu, basil, and glutinous rice. This variety ensures there’s a style for every palate, from robust and sweet to light and tangy.
To complete the experience, Woori Yeahsool has crafted a menu of Asian-inspired dishes that pair seamlessly with their effervescent makgeolli. Highlights include mala pork ribs, slow-cooked and aged for tender richness, and steamed scallops infused with makgeolli, topped with cilantro for a touch of springtime freshness.
Ddaro Jip
373-16 Hapjeong-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Ddaro Jip prides itself on merging the timeless charm of traditional Korean aesthetics with contemporary design, all while prioritising guest comfort. Here, they’ve introduced two distinct atmospheres within a single space: a modern, tranquil private zone and a panoramic city-view zone. By day, floor-to-ceiling windows bathe the room in natural light, letting guests watch the seasons change in real time; at night, the sparkling skyline injects a sultry, urban vibe into the atmosphere.
Makgeolli is the star of the show, selected with a keen eye for quality, balance, and transparency in production. The goal is to highlight Korea’s iconic rice wine as a drink on par with wine or whiskey, while elevating the image of makgeolli (often perceived as a “working drink”) and demonstrating its elegance and sophistication.
Among the most popular options are Rich Seonbi (리치선비) — a silky, lychee-infused makgeolli served in a thyme herb glass, and Shelter (쉼터), a bright, tonic-water-based alternative that comes with lime and spearmint for a refreshing, minty kick. If you’re keen to explore beyond the basics, consider trying “Ssuk Cre (쑥크레)” a mugwort-infused takju from a Daejeon-based distillery — a gentle, aromatic brew that appeals to all palates.
Damotori H
31 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Damotori H is the kind of low-key, cosy haunt that locals frequent without fanfare — exactly the spot you’d want when seeking an authentic, no-frills makgeolli experience. Just a short stroll from Itaewon, it offers a laid-back vibe where regulars chat happily over frothy bowls of rice wine. The real allure here is the thoughtfully arranged menu, divided according to Korea’s distinct regions.
If you’re unsure where to begin, take advantage of the tasting flight: five different makgeolli poured into petite cups so you can pick your favourite before committing to a full bottle. Though there’s no shortage of options, the bestseller is always Boksoondoga, a crowd-pleaser known for its smooth flavour and gentle fizz. Don’t expect fancy decor or complicated garnishes though.
At Damotori H, the focus is on genuine hospitality and the timeless comfort of Korea’s beloved rice brew. Whether you’re new to makgeolli or consider yourself a seasoned devotee, this hidden neighbourhood gem offers an unpretentious way to sip, savour, and deepen your appreciation for one of the country’s most iconic drinks.
