Female bartenders in Seoul liven up the city’s drinking scene with their artistry and expertise.
Text by: Jocelyn Tan
As the cocktail scene in Seoul continues to flourish, a growing number of women are taking centre stage in the bartending world. From navigating societal norms to crafting innovative libations, these female cocktail mavericks are assuredly redefining what it means to be a bartender in South Korea. We speak to 5 leading ladies who helm popular bars in the vibrant Gangnam district.
Polina Lee, senior bartender at Charles H in Four Seasons Hotel Seoul
What initially drew you to the bartending world, and how did you get started in the industry?
I began my career in the industry at 19, working part-time at a bar during my college years, where I stayed for six years. When I moved to Korea from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk on Sakhalin island (I’m Sakhalin-Korean), my limited language skills made finding a job challenging, so I looked for positions where I could communicate in English. This led me to Southside Parlor, where I worked as a server for two years.
Southside Parlor is excellent at providing a platform for individuals with no bartending experience to learn and grow. Even as a server, I found the world of cocktails fascinating. Before working there, I had never tried cocktails, so I was intrigued by the meticulous care the owners and staff put into their craft, as well as their genuine hospitality, which was not as common in my hometown, Russia. I started asking more questions, reading about spirits, flavours, textures, and aromas, and visiting other bars to try new things. The owners offered to train me in bartending, after recognising my interest and I eagerly accepted. After several years, I was promoted to bar manager. After six rewarding years at Southside Parlor, I moved to my current role at Charles H., Four Seasons Hotel Seoul. This decision was motivated by my desire to expand my horizons and further develop as a food and beverage professional.
What challenges have you faced as a female bartender in a traditionally male-dominated industry, and how have you overcome them?
After spending over 10 years in the bartending industry, I’ve seen it all—the good, the bad, and everything in between. One thing I’ve noticed is that sometimes people still make assumptions about female bartenders’ skills compared to their male counterparts. For example, there have been times when I’m behind the bar with my male colleagues, and a guest will specifically ask for their drink to be made by a guy. It’s not as common as it used to be, but it still happens occasionally.
The way I handle it is by not letting it get to me. I just focus on making great drinks, delivering top-notch service, and connecting with the guests who value what I bring to the table. It’s important to remember that these assumptions are held by a small minority of guests. In terms of respect and recognition, I feel like I often have to go the extra mile to prove my expertise and skills. But the industry is changing, thanks to many strong and influential women who are paving the way. This shift is helping to level the playing field and change outdated perspectives, making our industry something we can all be proud of. I also think it’s crucial to stay positive, approach challenges with a positive attitude and a belief in our abilities, which is key to success in any job.
Are there any misconceptions about bartending or being a female bartender that you would like to address?
In certain cultural contexts, such as Korea, working in any capacity related to alcohol, especially as a female, is unfortunately stigmatised. Cocktail bars are often seen as nothing more than a “drinking house,” which carries rather negative connotations, making it challenging to pursue bartending as a respected career. But I believe that’s changing. Slowly but surely, perceptions are shifting, and with a bit more understanding and openness, I’m hopeful that bartending will gain the recognition it deserves in Korea.
What do you enjoy most about being a bartender, and what keeps you passionate about your work?
I love being a bartender because it’s such a multifaceted job with endless opportunities to learn and meet new people. Creating a cocktail that a guest loves is incredibly rewarding, but even more than that, it’s about creating an experience. When someone comes to the bar, enjoys the atmosphere, feels the hospitality, and then leaves with a memory they’ll cherish and want to revisit, that’s what truly makes me happy. Hearing someone say that it was the best Negroni or Daiquiri they’ve ever had motivates me to keep doing what I do and strive to get even better.
One of the things I find most exciting about bartending is the endless learning opportunities. Even after 10 years in the industry, there’s always something new to discover and so much more room to grow. The ever-evolving world of food and beverage keeps you on your toes and provides that drive to keep improving, which I think is something that resonates with most bartenders.
Can you describe a signature cocktail you’ve created and the inspiration behind it?
One of my favourite creations currently on the menu at Charles H. is the Bing Cha Spritz. I crafted this drink for our Hong Kong menu, inspired by my trip to Hong Kong in 2019. That trip was made possible by participating in one of the most amazing cocktail competitions, Speed Rack, which is by the way an all-female competition that raises awareness for breast cancer, which makes it even more special. Hong Kong was a gastronomical heaven for me, especially the street food. I particularly loved their pineapple buns and drank plenty of Lemon Ice Tea. And I wanted to capture and share those joyful moments in a drink. The Bing Cha Spritz features charred pineapple rum, Earl Grey tea, Lillet, and sparkling wine, garnished with a dehydrated pineapple flower. It drinks like iced tea but with a delightful buzz.
Chelsea Kim, captain/ head bartender at Tea & Proof Bar
As a female bartender in a male-dominated industry, what challenges have you faced, and how have you overcome them?
Twelve years ago, when I was a junior bartender, I made a cocktail according to the establishment’s signature recipe and served it to an older male customer. Without even tasting the cocktail, he declined it and asked if a male bartender could make it instead. I was hurt, and although I understood it stemmed from ignorance, it was a time full of prejudice. From that moment, I was determined to become a bartender with expertise that could stand against anyone. This resolve has remained unchanged from the beginning to now.
Are there any misconceptions about bartending or being a female bartender that you would like to address?
This might be specific to Korea, but there’s a cultural concept known as “Talking Bars”. While the perception of bar culture has improved over time, many people still associate female bartenders with ‘talking bars’ [where female staff sit and chat with guests while having drink], rather than expecting them to craft cocktails. However, many female bartenders are working hard to break this barrier – we simply want to be recognised as bartenders, not specifically as female bartenders.
Can you describe a signature cocktail you’ve created and the inspiration behind it?
My most recently crafted signature cocktail is called “Brand New Margarita”. The base is Don Julio Blanco, combined with Cointreau fat-washed with white miso and ghee butter, fresh lime, and blue agave syrup. I also rimmed the glass with salt infused with yuzu from the Goheung region, powdered dried silkworm pupae and garlic – this is my Korean reinterpretation of Mexican worm salt. Silkworm pupae is familiar to Koreans as a canned product. It’s a good protein source and suitable as a future food, which inspired me to create the powder. This cocktail reflects my hope to stay in the bartending profession and venture into the food industry in the future.
Alice Kim (Bartender at Privilege Bar at Mondrian Seoul and former bar manager at Bar Geranium)
What initially drew you to the world of bartending, and how did you get started in the industry?
It was curiosity. Specifically, I remember it being tequila. I was curious about how a spirit made from plants could have such a unique flavour and wanted to study it. As I explored various spirits, delved into their histories, and experimented with making them taste better, I found myself becoming a bartender.
Are there any misconceptions about bartending or being a female bartender that you would like to address?
There seems to be a perception that all female bartenders are emotional and delicate. Beyond gender, I have seen many female bartenders with charismatic leadership. I believe that if people accept bartenders for who they are, regardless of gender, they will have a more enjoyable bar experience.
What do you think sets apart the cocktail scene in Korea from other parts of the world, and how do you see it evolving in the future?
I think it’s balance. Korea has a tradition of being balanced and harmonious, without any single aspect being overly prominent. Our bartending incorporates this subtlety, creating cocktails that may not have any element stand out, but instead hold a special charm within that balance. Korean cocktails reflect efforts to coexist with the local community, using unique seasonal and regional ingredients. I believe that Korean cocktails, which strive to achieve perfect balance and include local specialties, will continue to gain more recognition and popularity in the future.
Haebin (Ellen) Choi, (Bartender at Bar Cham and formerly at Villa Records Bar)
What initially drew you to the world of bartending, and how did you get started in the industry?
While studying design, I wanted to express myself in different ways. I was contemplating how to share what I wanted to express, and what I loved. During that time, I discovered that beverages carry many emotions and moments. Whether it’s a cup of coffee, a glass of alcohol, or even a sip of water, there’s a lot of conversation and emotions involved. This fascinated me. I wondered what could bring me closest to all three, and that’s how I started bartending.
As a female bartender in a traditionally male-dominated industry, what challenges have you faced, and how have you overcome them?
Working late at night initially caused a lot of misunderstanding and concern among my family. Especially since I started this job as soon as I became an adult, I faced a lot of rejection. However, looking back now, I think all these experiences gave me positive energy. Studying and preparing for competitions all night long without my family knowing taught me persistence. Now, I proudly show my results and work with pride.
Are there any misconceptions about bartending or being a female bartender that you would like to address?
This is still a difficult and sensitive topic. There are societal misconceptions of “women working at night” and the idea that “bartending is just about mixing drinks”. Recently, with more females joining the bartending profession, I think we’re addressing the first issue together. As for the second, many professions that require skills demand a lot of effort. Bartending involves considerations like economics, psychology, trends, technology, and health concerns like hygiene and allergies. I want to say that a lot of solid time and effort from bartenders goes into that brief moment in a glass.
Ji Min (Jinny) Hong (Bartender at Fermata, and formerly at Pine & Co)
As a female bartender in a traditionally male-dominated industry, what challenges have you faced, and how have you overcome them?
I never thought of it as a male-dominated industry. Instead, I saw it as an opportunity. Rather than thinking of overcoming it, I thought of using it to my advantage. I have a laid-back personality and don’t mind doing physical work. Initially, it was tough because I felt like I was being judged every time I made a cocktail. Now, I think if the customer doesn’t like it, I can just remake it. I try harder to match their preferences. Customers come to bars for various reasons, not just for drinks. Some come for the atmosphere, hospitality, and other factors. My biggest strength is hospitality. I strive to leave a good impression on every guest. However, I still struggle with physical endurance, as the job requires working late hours, and I prefer being active during the day. To recharge this, I ensure I get enough sleep, wake up early, have coffee, exercise, and maintain my routine.
Are there any misconceptions about bartending or being a female bartender that you would like to address?
Although perceptions have improved, some people in Korea still associate bartending with the nightlife industry and think of female bartenders as just women who sell alcohol. Even my parents were concerned when I left the hotel industry to become a bartender. I see bartending as a professional job, similar to chefs, baristas, and sommeliers. It requires gaining knowledge of beverages, participating in numerous competitions, and keeping up with constantly changing trends and new techniques. It’s a job that anyone can start, but not everyone can do well. It requires a lot of studying and effort. Nowadays, guest bartending at overseas bars and cultural exchanges also necessitates English proficiency and excellent hospitality skills. Although I’m in my third year as a bartender, I still have a long way to go. I’ve seen many people who started because it looked cool but gave up within a year because they couldn’t make drinks. In short, while many think we just drink, sell drinks, and party, we are always studying and working hard.
Note: Information accurate at time of publication in Epicure’s August-November 2024 print issue.