Seeking for the best places to eat in Rome? We ask in-the-know locals to share their favourite culinary gems in one of the world’s finest food cities.
BY KISSA CASTAÑEDA
From Gladiator II to the Catholic Jubilee, the last few months have put Rome in the centre of cultural conversation. Truth be told, the Italian capital is perpetually in the spotlight — evident from the 35 million tourists that visit the city each year.
It’s hardly surprising: who wouldn’t dream of travelling to Rome at least once in their life? Whether you want to retrace history at the Colosseum, take in the spectacular architecture of the Pantheon or Zaha Hadid’s MAXXI museum, stroll down the Spanish Steps and along Via Condotti for some serious shopping, or do the customary coin toss at the Trevi Fountain, Rome has to be experienced first-hand.
While there are seven hills to contend with, Rome’s beauty unfolds when you explore its patina-laden streets on foot. All that walking is sure to make you hungry, and luckily this is a city made for eating well. As the birthplace of cacio e pepe, pasta alla carbonara, carciofi alla romana, it’s a sin not to bring your appetite when you travel to Rome.
The main challenge is how to sift through the hundreds of restaurants to avoid the tourist traps and pick places that matter. Well, you know what they say: “When in Rome, do as the Romans do”. So, we’ve asked the clued-in locals to share their blackbook on eating and drinking in the Eternal City.
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Emilio Di Cristo, Chef de Cuisine of Il Ristorante – Niko Romito at Bvlgari Hotel Roma
Chef Emilio Di Cristo cut his teeth in high-end hotels and restaurants in Spain and England, before working as the sous chef at Bvlgari Resort Dubai for four years. He’s now at the helm of the kitchen at Il Ristorante – Niko Romito in Rome, rediscovering the wonders of Italian produce and serving up classic dishes with a heavy sprinkling of creativity.
Seu Pizza Illuminati: “In pizza we trust” is the motto of this contemporary pizzeria in Porta Portese, close to Trastevere. Founded by husband-and-wife team Pier Daniele Seu and Valeria Zuppardo, the pizza is cooked in a wooden oven resulting in a fluffy yet soft dough with a distinct crunch. Simple yet oh-so-good, Di Cristo describes their approach as “visionary” and loves how absolutely welcoming it is.
Rimessa Roscioli: Consistently named as one of the top tables in Rome, Rimessa Roscioli is celebrated for its culinary finesse, knowledgeable service and a convivial ambience that makes you feel like you’re eating at a friend’s house. Known for showcasing the finest artisan products complemented by a well-curated wine list (their cellar has over 2,800 bottles), it’s a place worth returning to time and again.
The Jerry Thomas Project: Make a reservation, receive the code and find the secret door that leads into one of Rome’s most renowned bars. Located in Centro Storico, this speakeasy-style bar is perfect for a sophisticated nightcap. Expect to find expertly-crafted cocktails served by skilled bartenders — “pure hospitality” as Di Cristo puts it— matched with an old-school vibe that projects an air of mystery. thejerrythomasproject.it/en
L’Osteria dell’orologio: Say Fiumicino and one immediately thinks of the airport, but it’s also a humble fishing town that houses a concentration of good seafood restaurants. Those in search of avant-garde cooking should bookmark L’Osteria dell’orologio. Helmed by chef Marco Claroni, it focuses on local fish served in myriad surprising ways. Don’t miss the restaurant’s own home-made bottarga.
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Maria Elena Roscioli, Restaurant Manager, Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
Food runs in the veins of Maria Elena Roscioli, a fourth-generation entrepreneur who along with her brothers run Antico Forno Roscioli, Roscioli Salumeria, Roscioli Caffè and Rimessa Roscioli — revered culinary establishments deeply rooted in Rome. Proffering simplicity and quality in every aspect of their business, these are also the qualities she seeks in places to eat.
Piatto Romano: Don’t let the unassuming interior fool you — you’ll eat like royalty at Piatto Romano. Located in buzzing Testaccio, this trattoria is where you can “rediscover the true flavours of tradition”, stresses Roscioli. The spartan environment puts the focus squarely on the food, and the continuous flow of locals prove they’re definitely doing something right.
Santo Palato: Everybody needs to experience a Roman trattoria, and this fresh iteration blends tradition and modernity beautifully. Chef Sarah Cicolini cooks the classics — a yolky carbonara is her calling card — but the kitchen also offers chalkboard specials depending on the seasonal produce. Enjoy the retro interiors, buzzy ambience and cool service, it doesn’t get better than this.
Orma: One of the most interesting new restaurants in Rome, one-Michelin-starred Orma is all about the journey of Colombia-born chef Roy Caceres. There are riffs on Italian dishes as well as influences from Asian cuisine, all served in a Scandi-inspired minimalist setting. Whether you go for the Indelible Traces, Current Traces or the choose-your-own adventure menu, the end result is pure satisfaction.
Le Levain: It’s only natural that Roscioli would have a high bar for bakery, but she wholeheartedly recommends this French patisserie and boulangerie in Trastevere for its delicious cakes and baked goods. From proper baguettes to flaky kouign-amann and amazing specialty coffee, this is a choice spot to fuel up during the day.
Enoteca del Frate: Set in the elegant, residential Prati district, this refined neighbourhood enoteca offers an impressive selection of wines and spirits. Come for the incredible range of bottles and stay for the wonderful food and hospitality.
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Massimo Mazzola, Head Concierge, Hotel d’Inghilterra
With the best restaurants on speed dial, Massimo Mazzola has been guiding the well-heeled guests of the iconic Hotel d’Inghilterra since 2012. With decades of experience working in luxury hotels — he was previously with Belmond’s Splendido in Portofino — Mazzola instinctively knows when a place is special and what to recommend for a truly memorable holiday.
Ristorante Angelina a Testaccio: This charming restaurant serves up traditional Roman favourites like amatriciana, coda alla vaccinara, and saltimbocca alla romana — all made with fresh ingredients. You may find the same dishes elsewhere, but it’s hard to replicate the restaurant’s rustic decor and cocooning ambience. Score tables tucked away in private corners, which are perfect for a romantic meal or a quiet dinner with friends.
La Barrique: Oenophiles would love this cosy wine bar in the Monti district. Specialising in a diverse range of Italian wines, it houses bottles from established regions as well as lesser-known local producers. “The staff is always ready to recommend wines based on your preferences, and the intimate setting makes it feel like a home away from home,” says Mazzola.
Brucio Coppelle: Want to taste a real Roman pizza? Make your way to Brucio Coppelle in Piazza delle Coppelle. The pizza features a thin, crispy crust — the signature Roman style — with a variety of delicious toppings made using high-quality ingredients. Whether you’re in the mood for a Margherita or something completely out of the boxl, this pizzeria has something to satisfy everyone.
Vanda: A stylish restaurant in the heart of Rome’s Trastevere district, Vanda features Italian dishes with a creative twist. “I love that it’s an osteria inside an enoteca, so you can enjoy not only delicious food but also a fantastic selection of wine,” shares Mazzola. The relaxed atmosphere makes it ideal for both casual and special occasions