It’s the first week of the much-anticipated opening of The Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar, acclaimed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first restaurant in Asia, and the reception has been positive.
Like us, foodie friends are rejoicing that there’s now one more go-to option for quality, confidently executed eats. Add to that the venue’s tasteful, sophisticated setting, polished service (currently led by the chef’s younger brother Philippe) and decent prices, and there’s no reason not to return.
Flavours are balanced, with well-paired Asian inflections, and Vongerichten’s indulgent signatures such as the Egg Caviar ($35) and Black Truffle Fontina Cheese Pizza ($20) can be found on the menu. Highlights of our meal include the Toasted Egg Yolk, Caviar with Herbs ($35) – golden molten orbs balanced between two paper-thin slivers of buttery brioche and crowned with a glistening quenelle of caviar, and the Yellowfin Tuna Tartare, Avocado, Ginger Marinade, Spicy Radish ($18), which is clean, savoury, tart and creamy all at once before trailing off with the gentle heat of ginger and chilli, and aromatic notes of fragrant kaffir. Also lovely is the Finely Shredded Kale, Lemon, Green Chilli, Mint, Touch of Garlic ($15) – a fresh, clean salad that’s so simple in its execution yet absolutely satisfying.
For mains, Vongerichten’s Spice Crusted John Dory, Sweet and Sour Broth ($34) and Grass Fed Beef Tenderloin, White Asparagus, Habanero Hot Sauce ($34) stand out. The unilaterally cooked fish bears tender flesh, beautifully crisp skin and a flavour profile reminiscent of our local black pepper crab. The juicy beef holds its own but what takes the dish up a notch is the simple pairing of a single stalk of fat white asparagus garnished with punchy micro herbs, and that hot sauce.
Desserts don’t disappoint and the Baked Alaska, Passion Fruit and Coconut ($13), Warm Chocolate Cake, Vanilla Ice Cream ($15) and Raspberry Frangipane Tart, Raspberry Swirl Ice Cream ($13) are comforting flavours to round off an excellent meal here. Try them all if you have room. If not, be like us and return soon.
Vongerichten is in town till this Friday and the restaurant (dinner only, for now) is fully booked for the week. Take our tip: walk in to the bar and you might just score a seat. Block 17D Dempsey Road. Tel: 1800 304 5588
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