Finest Flavour: Remembering the Legacy of Executive Chef Agung Gede (1975 – 2023)

Home to an opulent island lifestyle, The St. Regis Bali Resort effortlessly combines classic sophistication with a modern sensibility in Nusa Dua. Within its sprawling tropical landscape, crystal blue saltwater lagoon, dreamy pristine beach, as well as 124 suites and villas, one can expect refinements and personalised attention.

Four dining destinations and two bars are available for one’s dining and drinking pleasure: Kayuputi, the iconic Asian-inspired fine dining restaurant; Dulang, a homage to Balinese cuisine; Boneka, where guests will find global flavours and delicious feasts; Gourmand Deli, a casual bistro; Vista Bar on the beachfront; and last but not least, The St. Regis Bar.

Led by executive chef Agung Gede, expect nothing short of perfection when one wines and dines at the resort. Having worked at the establishment since its opening in 2008, Gede’s prowess in combining premium ingredients and haute cuisine techniques has birthed countless memorable dining experiences over the years. His exceptional skills have also cemented Kayuputi’s reputation as one of the island’s best fine dining restaurants.

On setting foot in Kayuputi, the predominantly white interior provides a suitable canvas to be whisked away on a flavourful journey. The fiery cooking action and controlled clatter from the state-of-the-art open kitchen provide an engrossing spectacle for onlookers. Usually, Gede can be seen calling out the orders or adding his final touch to a dish. More often than not, he can be found deep in conversation with the guests, finding out their preferences or getting their feedback on the chef’s surprise menu.

“We’ve been here for 15 years and I can tell you that the recipe for Kayuputi’s accomplishment is down to two things: commitment and consistency,” says Gede.

“My commitment as an executive chef and the commitment of the entire team to always provide the best for every guest. Every time a guest, especially a repeater, eats here they know that they can expect something different.”

His statement is often tested by Kayuputi’s loyal followers who not only come for a meal but also for the restaurant’s famed wine dinners, takeovers, and iconic Sunday brunches. Hence, he and his team possess a vast repository of guests’ preferences as well as catalogue of ingredients and creativity. Renowned as a chef who sketches, Gede’s artful take on food presentation can be found in his sketchbook and smartphone.

“The easiest way to communicate my idea to the team is through a sketch. Often, I find an ingredient in a market that sparks my interest and propels me to create a recipe. I will then make a quick sketch and share it with the team for research and development,” he adds. An ingredient-driven chef, his intimate knowledge of Balinese cuisine and encyclopedic cooking techniques have resulted in a menu of finesse.

Deriving his inspiration from the island’s veneration for the land and sea, he created Nyegara Gunung. It is made of two evolving signature dishes featuring the produce from the land and the bounty of the sea. From Lemongrass Butter Glazed Lobster Tail to Roasted Smoked Wagyu Beef Tri-Tip Steak, Gede’s recent exploration pushed the envelope further in capturing true Balinese flavour.

Staying true to his roots, Be Sampi Basa Pangi, Pusuh Biyu Meliklik and Rujak Bulung Tuna are two-star dishes that will make any Balinese beam with recognition and pride. Having lived in the island’s different regencies, he borrows Gianyar’s sambal keluak, Karangasem’s meliklik or braising technique, the island’s beloved street food dish Rujak Bulung, and the powerful spice blends, Basa Wangen. “Both dishes are the new version of Nyegara Gunung. It is a tribute to our ingredients, heritage, cooking techniques, and flavour,” says the chef. “It is a marvel how Balinese regional cuisine is widely varied from one area to the other. It fascinates me how humans and their terroir influence cuisine. That’s why, even in Bali, our palates are slightly different.”

These flavour and palate sensitivities are important to create a memorable dining experience.

“I always tell my team that the more they train their palates, the easier it will be for them to identify and pair different flavours. Ultimately, winning a guest’s heart comes down to creating a new flavour combination that stays with them, long after the meal is over,” adds executive chef Agung Gede.

Editor’s Note: “Finest Flavour” first appeared in the April/May 2023 print edition of epicure as a cover story. It was accompanied by chef Agung Gede’s recipes: Be Sampi Basa Pangi, Pusuh Biyu Meliklik and Rujak Bulung Tuna. Find the recipes on epicure Magazine app, available for download in the AppStore and Google Play Store.

Executive chef Agung Gede passed away on the evening of Wednesday, 4 October 2023. He was 48 years old. The Indonesian culinary community mourns the loss of a great chef, a supportive mentor, and a highly respected colleague. His family lost a husband and a father. During his career, he has mentored many aspiring chefs from all over Indonesia. They are now an inseparable part of his legacy.