Nicolas Raynal, the new executive chef of Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road brings his French roots to the forefront while embracing Asian inspirations shaped by his culinary journey from West to East. This time, he shares his culinary journey, tracing it back to when he first left the Gallic land.
I had two paths to choose from: the kitchen or the woods. Growing up in a small village in Auvergne, France, options were far from plentiful. My grandfather was a lumberjack, and my mother worked on our modest farm where we harvested produce and raised livestock. Farm life offered an early appreciation for quality ingredients—a foundation that shaped my journey as an aspiring cook. Ultimately, I chose the kitchen and embarked on years of rigorous training that eventually led me from one country to another.
Eye for quality
I continued my culinary journey in nearby cities, gaining hands-on kitchen experience. My early years in France were all about skill-building, starting as a commis and grounding myself in the industry. Moving to the south, around Marseille and Toulon, introduced me to seafood—a cuisine I had little exposure to in my forest hometown.
I first tasted the Michelin world at the three-Michelin-starred Troisgros in Roanne. It sharpened not just my cooking skills but also my discipline and commitment to consistency. Paris was my next stop, joining Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, another three-Michelin-starred restaurant. This is where I embraced finesse and precision, refining my techniques. Encouragement from mentors, particularly my first, chef Hervé Sauton, pushed me further into the scene.
With a growing fervour, I joined the opening team of Le39V in Paris under chef Frédéric Vardon in 2010. As my first sous chef role, it expanded my perspective beyond cooking—seeing the kitchen as both a business and an organisation. Thanks to chef Vardon’s tutelage and his dedication to classic French cuisine, we earned a Michelin star in 2012.
A couple of years later, I took on my first chef de cuisine role in Switzerland alongside my then-partner. My time with chef Vardon didn’t end there, as I later reconnected with him to open Le39V in Hong Kong.
Journey to the east
A good friend from back home, chef Julien Royer—now helming Odette Singapore—invited me to visit China years before I moved to Hong Kong. It was a visit that left a mark. The crescendos of daily life and the deep-rooted culinary traditions sparked something in me. It offered a glimpse into Chinese and Asian excellence, stirring an interest I hadn’t anticipated.
In 2017, chef Frederic Vardon offered me a position to help open Le39V in Hong Kong. I took the opportunity to mark my move from Switzerland to Asia. My time in Hong Kong became a pivotal chapter in my career. Managing the restaurant from its pre-opening stages to its operating years taught me lessons that no classroom could. I learned to source quality ingredients from across the region, to pay attention to details, and to craft menus that introduced classic French cuisine to local palates—no easy feat when culinary customs stood worlds apart.
The first week of our soft opening brought feedback I hadn’t fully expected. Guests found French flavours too salty and creamy for their liking. Staying true to tradition was important, but so was adapting to our diners’ preferences. Balancing authenticity with approachability became a learning curve that stretched beyond just flavour.
I still recall an early moment with local partners. They brought vintage bottles of Romanée-Conti from the 1980s to pair with our menu. Back at home, opening such a bottle is almost ceremonial, with a sommelier present and every pour handled precisely. Yet here, they sipped casually, in a straightforward manner. At first, I was taken aback, but I came to appreciate this cultural difference. In Hong Kong, wine is enjoyed with an ease that doesn’t diminish its value—it’s simply another way to appreciate the moment.
These discoveries pushed me to immerse myself deeper into Asian culture. I explored dim sum stalls and savoured shabu-shabu, introducing my palate to local flavours. I tasted dried seafood, learned to balance the use of soy sauce in my cooking, and began familiarising myself with the wok—an art I’m still mastering.
These moments of discovery have continued in Bangkok since I moved here in 2019. My team and I sometimes wander through local restaurants and food stalls, stumbling upon ingredients that spark ideas. Through these encounters, we uncover local products to incorporate into our menus—an ongoing journey of taste, learning, and connection.
Some discoveries led me to my go-to for a hearty Western breakfast at Shelly House in Silom or Fran’s in Sathorn. For dinner, iODE in the Sathorn area offers a comforting taste of home—it feels like the kind of French bistro you’d stumble upon in Paris. Still, I have my local favourites, like Tom Kha Kai soup and Khao Niao Mamuang, or mango sticky rice, to satisfy my sweet cravings.
Towards change
With years of experience behind me, I joined Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road just in time for its 10th anniversary. I work closely with the team to refresh the hotel’s dining experiences, including the launch of CHAR Restaurant’s new menu earlier this year. I always recommend the classic steak frites with Café de Paris sauce—an undeniable favourite. I enjoy the Beef Tartare, a French classic prepared à la minute at the table.
While French cuisine is my foundation, I incorporate flavours I’ve picked up, from curry paste and satay to pickles and Harissa sauce. Staying true to the hotel’s commitment to local connections, we also highlight regional products like Kad Kokoa in our desserts. Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road also opt to source vegetables from a Chiang Mai farm and poultry from local suppliers. The industry here is evolving towards self-sufficiency, and with efforts like ours, we’re definitely getting there.
Learn more about the culinary offerings at Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road on the hotel’s official website here
