Root formulas

When it comes to looks, the parsnip would not stand a chance against the bright carrot, its close cousin in the root vegetable family. The parsnip’s root is pallid and blemished by grey wrinkles, with a tail that tapers into a spindly, wriggling curve that appears strangely organic and alive.

But taste-wise, this tuberous plant, which is native to Eurasia, is anything but what its dull appearance suggests: it is sweeter and earthier than the carrot; a flavour that is developed during winter, when the cold changes the root’s starch into sugar. The parsnip is reminiscent of a lighter version of a potato, which is why it’s often mixed with mashed potatoes or roasted in an oven till it is browned and its light, nutty aroma comes to life.

In fact, the parsnip (introduced by British colonists to North America as a root vegetable) was the primary source of starch for most Americans until the potato came along in the mid 19^th century. Still, there is much to be admired in this gnarly plant: it is high in fibre, which aids digestion and lowers blood cholesterol, and packed with anti-oxidants. The Irish also brewed parsnips with malt instead of hops, turning them into a beer. The seeds were once harvested and sold by herbalists, who believed their oil had curative properties for fevers. Today, the parsnip is slowly making a comeback, thanks to chefs keen to exploit its versatility. British toque Huge Fearnley-Whittingstall, for example, makes curry-spiced parsnips with potatoes.

Excerpt from July 2013 issue of epicure.