On a gastronomic journey through Victoria’s fertile Gippsland region, Epicure joins Chef Michael Wilson of one-Michelin-starred Marguerite as he reconnects with old friends and rediscovers the beauty of provenance — from regenerative farms and olive groves to small batch distilleries.
Text and photos by: Amy Van
For Chef Michael Wilson, returning to Gippsland wasn’t just a homecoming, it was a reconnection with the roots of his culinary journey. The chef patron of one-Michelin-starred Marguerite tucked away in Singapore’s Flower Dome, grew up in this fertile pocket of Victoria. Here, rolling hills and generous skies cradle a region celebrated for its produce – in particular dairy.
At Marguerite, he champions provenance and crafts through thoughtful, produce-driven cuisine. Back in his hometown of Beaconsfield, that ethos comes full circle. As part of this year’s Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, Michael returned to collaborate with O.MY, the two-hatted restaurant owned by his childhood friends Blayne and Chayse Bertoncello. Just 400m from his family’s old home, the restaurant sources nearly all its ingredients from the Bertoncellos’ nearby farm.“It felt surreal,” Michael recalls.
“Even though the suburb has changed a lot since I lived there, it still felt like home. It was especially moving to see some familiar faces – people I hadn’t seen in over 20 years – come in to dine.”
At O.MY, constraint breeds creativity. The farm dictates what ends up on the plate. “You just have to trust the produce and let it shine,” says Michael. That faith pays off. He was particularly struck by the “tiny diamond tomatoes and strawberries which were bursting with flavour”. With hundreds of growing beds, a fruit orchard, berry patch and beehive, the two-acre farm is a self-sustaining marvel. “Everything they grow is used exclusively at O.MY which makes the dining experience feel incredibly personal and grounded.”
“Gippsland is special to me because it’s home,” says Michael. “There’s a deep sense of familiarity and personal connection. I grew up here, surrounded by farmland and a close-knit community. Back then, the region was known mainly for its dairy and beef, but so much has changed. It has evolved far beyond its traditional strengths. Regional restaurants, and even some in Melbourne, are proudly showcasing Gippsland produce, and it’s helping to shine a light on the incredible growers, makers, and artisans behind it all.”
Farm gates and local camaderie
Post-event, Michael’s journey continued deeper into Gippsland’s bounty. From gourmet mushrooms to lush olive groves and regenerative farms, every stop offered a window into a way of life deeply connected to soil, season and sustainability.
At Wattle Bank Farm, husband-and-wife duo Peter Bland and Beatrice Imbert grow over 100kg of gourmet mushrooms weekly using organic, closed-loop practices. Their produce graces the menus of top restaurants across Melbourne and Gippsland. We tucked into sautéed oyster mushrooms tossed with butter, and met the couple’s horses grazing in the paddocks. It was an idyllic snapshot of life on the land.
At Flock Stock & Basil, whose farm gate is open on Saturdays, owners Chris Muggeridge and Anna Briggs focus on improving the landscape, supporting wildlife populations and restoring habitat. They run mostly heritage breeds of livestock due to their temperament, hardiness, and superior flavour. Some of the breeds include: Black-faced Suffolk sheep, Berkshire cross pigs, Friesian cross cattle, and Sussex and Plymouth Rock chickens.
Among the farms we visited, it was Grassy Spur Olives that captivated Michael most. Tucked among lush hills of South Gippsland, the olive grove, run by Helen and Peter Wright, produces outstanding extra virgin olive oil and honey, without the use of pesticides.
“I’ve got a bit of an obsession with olive oil,” Michael confesses. “Seeing the different olive varieties they’re cultivating — without pesticides and with only natural applications to the soil — was incredibly inspiring. They have their own bee apiary, which not only produces honey but also plays a key role in pollinating the olive trees. The entire operation felt so thoughtfully integrated, and the quality of their extra virgin olive oil was exceptional.”
From barrels to bottles
No exploration of Gippsland is complete without a stop at Loch Brewery & Distillery (44 Victoria Road, Loch). Established in 2014, Loch is set in a century-old red brick bank building, framed by a picket fence. The adjoining butcher’s shop now houses a British-style brewery.
Founder Craig Johnson’s small-batch ales, single malt whisky, rum and gins infused with native botanicals are crafted with traditional methods and a gleam of ingenuity. He uses natural brewing methods along with Alembic copper pot stills from Portugal and European barrels for aging. Here guests can enjoy old world charm and a tasting experience at the historic cellar door.
“What really struck me was the passion that each of the producers bring to what they do,” says Michael. He continues, “At Loch Brewery & Distillery, the enthusiasm Craig has for his products is infectious. The way he talks about what’s aging in the barrels — whether it’s their single malt whisky, or rum — pulls you in. You can’t help but be excited too. Their story is remarkable: born from a passion for whisky, shaped by journeys to distilleries in Tasmania and the UK, and brought to life in a historic red brick bank and butcher shop in Gippsland. They’ve preserved heritage while producing world-class spirits using traditional methods… the attention to detail is extraordinary.”
The Meeniyan mosaic
Further down the South Gippsland Highway lies Meeniyan, a charming small town of just 800 residence where everyone seems to know everyone. Picture Gilmore Girls’ Stars Hollow but in rural Australia, topped with sourdough, pasta and good wine.
Our base for the next couple of nights was Ross Farm (84 Hewett St, Meeniyan) – a former working dairy converted to contemporary accommodation. Designed by Andrea Moore and built by her father Lindsay together with a team of local craftspeople, Ross Farm’s trio of dwellings (the Cabin, Barn and Dairy) are minimalist sanctuaries of timber, stone, and sunlight. Think personal onsens, fireplaces, and kitchens stocked with bacon, butter, baguette, eggs and milk. Some of the design highlights including the Dairy’s freestanding over-sized stone bath with floor-to-glass windows overlooking landscaped surrounds, and the Barn’s striking aged-steel spiral staircase. There’s personal imprint of Andrea and her dad in every detail.
“Ross Farm was such a beautiful and well-done example of a farm converted into a hotel; visually stunning and very comfortable. Again, it is conceptualised from such a personal approach from the family that it feels and is very authentic. I can’t say I have ever been in accommodation like it before. It’s very unique,” recalls Michael.
Dinner that evening was a short drive away at Mahob at Moos (89 Whitelaw Street), a modern Cambodian restaurant helmed by Chef Woody Chet. Dishes like grilled tiger prawns partnered with sweet and sour yellow kroeung curry, holy basil, kampot peppercorn sauce and chargrilled pineapple; as well as slow-cooked Gippsland beef ribs with caramelised coconut spoke of bold flavours and heartfelt cooking. Woody’s decision to leave his former restaurant at Melbourne’s Chapel Street for Gippsland brought his family a slower pace, and gave the region a distinctive new voice.
Across the street, Trulli (93 Whitelaw Street) offers a taste of Southern Italy. The establishment is run by the Laera brothers from Puglia. Francesco and Claudio put their heart and soul in their food – ranging from mussels cooked in ‘nduja and tomato, lamb ragu pasta, and perfectly crisp cannoli. They are also famous for their wood-fired pizzas and breads. Besides the restaurant, the siblings operate Trulli Pantry, a local haven for cheeses, cold cuts, lasagnas, pastries, gourmet groceries from Gippsland and handpicked vintages from Italy.
“Thanks to people like the team at Mahob at Moo’s and the Italian brothers at Trulli, they’re bringing a rich mix of culture, heritage, and innovation to the region. Whether it’s Cambodian flavours or classic Italian cooking, it’s all executed with so much pride and integrity. The quality coming out of Gippsland now is exceptional, and that’s a direct result of the passion everyone we visited has for their craft. It’s inspiring to witness.”
The power of place
There’s certainly a strong community spirit and special bond among the food and wine producers in the region. Michael thinks it’s a case of “together we all achieve more”. He reflects: “There is no denying that over the past 20 years every farmer/artisan has refined their craft further. They saw opportunity where others saw tumbleweeds. They have a lot to be passionate and positive about and have positioned themselves in a place that will exponentially grow, year on year. I think the quality to come out of the region now is really excellent. Great food does bring people together.”
Michael adds, “When chefs work closely with farmers, foragers, cheesemakers, or fishermen, they gain a deeper understanding of each ingredient — the challenges of seasonal supply, the effects of sustainable practices, and the true value of what ends up on the plate. It’s a two-way relationship too: chefs inspire growers to try something new, while producers introduce chefs to unexpected possibilities. That kind of connection fosters innovation and keeps the region’s food scene evolving.”
“These relationships also strengthen the entire food ecosystem. By championing local artisans, chefs create demand for high-quality, ethically produced ingredients, which in turn supports small-scale producers and contributes to a more resilient and sustainable food culture. That’s something youcan’t quite replicate in places like Singapore, where almost everything is imported. Being back in Victoria reminds me of the power and potential of true farm-to-table dining — and just how vital Gippsland’s producers are in shaping those experiences.”
Perhaps the most profound takeaway from this homecoming is that Gippsland’s artisans and visionaries are setting the table for a culinary future rooted in sustainability, quality, and connection.
